• The frame of the Basic Project Engine was built up “board by board” from individual parts made of basswood and mahogany.
• I planned my cutting carefully to make the best use of the materials.
• I cut the materials to length per the “cut list”, with a razor saw.
• A miter box was used when cutting the strip wood to make sure the ends came out square.

• Before assembling the frame, I drilled the mounting holes for the axleboxes with a 1/8” drill bit. I drilled the holes marked "1" from dimensions found on the plans.
• I then used the axleboxes as drilling guides for the others that are marked "2".
• This procedure called for a little more precision than some of the others, so took my time and worked carefully.
• This ensured that the axles came out parallel to each other and properly aligned relative to the frame.

• Next, I removed the axleboxes and placed the wooden parts over the drawing for a trial fit.
• Once I was satisfied with the fit of the parts I was ready to glue the frame together.
• I built the frame directly on the plans to ensure "squareness" of the final assembly.
• I used a piece of waxed paper to avoid gluing the parts to the plan.
• It tried to be sparing with the glue because any excess would have caused problems later when I stained and weathered the wood.
• I started the assembly process by gluing together the frame sills “B”, the cross braces “C”, and the end beams “A” with 5-minute epoxy.
• I used epoxy because of its uperior strength and durability.  CA glues are brittle and do not hold up nearly as well over time.
• I placed weights on top of the pieces while the epoxy cured.

• After the basic frame assembly was done, I removed it from the plans and layed the deck boards “D” onto the plan.
• I staggered the ends of the boards slightly to give a more interesting look.
• I then epoxied the frame to the deck material.
• The doubler plate “E” was cut to size from the mahogany base plate that came with the Midwest engine kit.
• It is added to provide support for the engine after the chain holes had been cut in the decking.
• I glued the doubler plate to the bottom side of the deck where indicated in the drawings.
• After the glue had fully cured, I layed out the square holes for the drive chain.
• I used a ¼” drill bit to start the holes, drilling close to the lines.
• The holes were then made square with careful application of a small file.
• This completed the assembly of the frame.

D I S C L A I M E R
Please read:

• You are responsible for your own safety - it is up to you to educate yourself on safe construction and operating practices before starting any project involving live steam.
• All content presented in these pages is for informational purposes only and does not constitute an endorsement or recommendation of any particular technique, component, or design practice.  The sole purpose of this website is to document the way in which I built my first live steam locomotive.
• It is up to each individual visiting this site to research and decide for themselves the suitability and safety of any techniques, components, or design practices they may wish to employ in their own practice.

• When approached correctly, building and operating live steam locomotives can be a safe and enjoyable hobby.  There are many books available in the hobby to guide and educate the novice.  Check with one or more of the online live steam discussion groups for recommendations.